![]() The left has the terminals on the open side. The powered brakes version on the right with the terminals on the closed side. Side by side with the closed sides compared. The switches are pretty much the same apart from the position of the terminals, I suspect that this was so you could tell them apart. ![]() I sprayed the pedal pin with some white grease ready for reassembly. There is also a nylon washer on the pin which doesn’t need to be removed against the pedal itself, but you can if you want to. Take care to retain the plastic bushing inside the lever bar if you remove it fully. In my case I wanted to regrease the pin and bushing, so I moved the lever completely of the pin. ![]() The switch can now be pulled down as the other side of the switch is open at the top of the side casing to allow the switch to be removed, thus saving the complete removal of the brake lever bar if you didn’t want to. This will release the closed part of the switch casing, a hole which the pin fits through in order to stop the switch from coming off the pedal pin. Move the brake lever halfway off the pin. With the pin removed the connecting bar to the brake master will be able to be pulled of the pedal. I knew mine would come out easy enough, but it could be worth while placing a cloth over the steering column to prevent any damage if you slip. I used a long pair of angled pliers to pull it out. The first thing is to remove the retaining pin, this could be rusted in place so perhaps a little penetrating oil would help. The switch and the lever are held in place by a fairly strong retaining pin. The switch is attached to the pedal via, which is in turn mounted around the master cylinder lever, also attached to the pedal via the same pin. The only difference is the terminal connections are on the opposite side. The sharp eyed may notice that the switch is for a 67-68, but the brake bar is the same. I’m not an electrical guru but can pretty much follow the schematics.A blister packaged switch. Even it it needs separate power via the white wire it should have no effect on the brake lights. I’m not sure I need to add a hot wire to the now disconnected turn signal white wire to make the turn signals function since they also get power through the turn signal flasher OR is my thinking wrong on this? Maybe the white wire provides power for the 4 way flashers and turn signals. So here’s the questions: i’m thinking I should be able to run my new brake wire to the brake switch and all 3 brake lights would function independently from the turn signals. The new brake wiring is also connected to my 3rd brake light. It would be connected to the same connector which still has the taillight wiring as original. ![]() A separate wire from the kick panel connector would be routed to the former brake/turn signal connecter and would function as the new brake system wiring. To accomplish these upgrades, I believe I can move the turn signal/brake light wires from their connectors to act as separate left and right turn signal wiring. So the reason for all the above is I want to make some safety lighting upgrades to include amber turn signals separate from the customary brake/turn signal harness and add a 3rd brake light. I’m not sure how it all happens inside the switch and if anyone wants to explain it, I’m always up to learning something new. For 82 the brake light and turn signal body wiring is virtually the same as in my 65, 69 and 71 manuals in that the white wire from the brake switch goes to the turn signal switch as does the pink wire from the turn signal flasher.
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